Can You Wash Wwii Navy Dress White Uniform

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My WWII sailor Uniform/suit: Do I dry clean or can I wash?

• Thread starter Atterbury Dodd
• Start date Mar 11, 2008

• #1

Hello,
I just picked up a WWII sailor uniform yesterday. What I need to know is, do I have to dry-clean it, or can it be hand washed gently in cold water? It is made of what looks like felted wool, and it is still in very firm tight condition.

Any help will be appreciated!

Atterbury

P.S. I wanted it anyway, but is twenty dollars a steal for a complete sailors outfit? I got two pairs trousers(they button very unusually lol ), the wool shirt, the necktie bandana, hat, and dark grey sweater. Everything is in perfect shape except the hat and sweater. The hat has a few moth holes, as does the sweater. It fits me!

• #2

Hello,
I just picked up a WWII sailor uniform yesterday. What I need to know is, do I have to dry-clean it, or can it be hand washed gently in cold water? It is made of what looks like felted wool, and it is still in very firm tight condition.

Any help will be appreciated!

Atterbury

P.S. I wanted it anyway, but is twenty dollars a steal for a complete sailors outfit? I got two pairs trousers(they button very unusually lol ), the wool shirt, the necktie bandana, hat, and dark grey sweater. Everything is in perfect shape except the hat and sweater. The hat has a few moth holes, as does the sweater. It fits me!

I would take everything to a very good dry cleaner and have them advise you.

• #3

If it's a Service Dress Blue jumper, it needs to be 1) dry cleaned and 2) pressed in a VERY specific manner; a lot of Dry Cleaners are totally clueless about Navy Uniforms. The Neckerchief needs to be rolled in a specific manner and tied in a square knot, as well. Suggestions:

1) Post pictures

and

2) Contact your local NOSC (Naval Operational Support Center, what used to be Navy Reserve Centers) and ask the staff where THEY go to dry clean their uniforms.

V/R,

AO2

• #4

Hello Dave,
I'm glad I asked, because if any dry cleaner would be clueless, our small town cleaner probably would be.

I will try to post some pictures later today if I get a chance. I have trouble getting pictures to work on my posts. That doesn't make sense, because my avatar shows, and it's easy to change. If worst comes to worst, I could make a sailor picture for my avatar, and you could probably tell the basic type.

• #5

I agree with the above statements of going to the dry cleaners.

I would include finding an old bluejackets manual if you can or a vet and asking them about the "rack press" for getting your inspection creases in between wears. Also the manual will have the proper rolling and storage listed and spelled out for you.

Bonus if you find one old enough that tells you how to secure your hammack to your seabag with seven knots and why there are seven...

• #6

Messages

23

Location

NW UK

Uniform

Not sure looking at dates as to whether you will be picking up this message or not.

The uniform you have (what a bargain as well!!) is the style and material used right up until the late 60's. It is of that superb thick soft cloth material.
It can be washed very easily as it will then stop the white trim from going yellow. BUT NOT a hot wash just a very cool wash. Best done by hand and then can be rinsed in a machine and then hung up to dry. Also wash and iron uniform inside out.

If you want more info on how to get it pressed correctly and safely drop me a line. Also is the cap the 'Donald Duck' style being like a black flat pancake with US Navy on the tally? If so these are available on quite a few occasions on Ebay. If it is the white Dixie Cup style then they are the same today and very easy to obtain. Also today's neckerchief (sometimes called the scarf) is also easy to obtain and I can give you details of how to roll and tie one.

Hello,
I just picked up a WWII sailor uniform yesterday. What I need to know is, do I have to dry-clean it, or can it be hand washed gently in cold water? It is made of what looks like felted wool, and it is still in very firm tight condition.

Any help will be appreciated!

Atterbury

P.S. I wanted it anyway, but is twenty dollars a steal for a complete sailors outfit? I got two pairs trousers(they button very unusually lol ), the wool shirt, the necktie bandana, hat, and dark grey sweater. Everything is in perfect shape except the hat and sweater. The hat has a few moth holes, as does the sweater. It fits me!

• #7

Hello,
I just picked up a WWII sailor uniform yesterday. What I need to know is, do I have to dry-clean it, or can it be hand washed gently in cold water? It is made of what looks like felted wool, and it is still in very firm tight condition.

Any help will be appreciated!

Atterbury

P.S. I wanted it anyway, but is twenty dollars a steal for a complete sailors outfit? I got two pairs trousers(they button very unusually lol ), the wool shirt, the necktie bandana, hat, and dark grey sweater. Everything is in perfect shape except the hat and sweater. The hat has a few moth holes, as does the sweater. It fits me!

Maybe I can help.

Have your drycleaner clean, but not press the uniform.

For the jumper: 1) Turn jumper top inside out. 2) Press flat, such that the collar will have a crease just inboard of each star. 3) fold in half, sleeve to sleeve and press center crease. If you've done it right, the collar will have 3 creases and the torso will have an outward crease in front and an inward crease in back. For the trousers: Turn them inside out and press flat such that the creases will be on the sides of the legs, and inward when turned rightside in. For the neckerchief: 1) Iron flat into a square 2) fold into a triangle, by bringing 2 opposite points together. 3) Here's the somewhat tricky part: have a friend hold the neckerchief, the long points (the ones furthest apart) in their hands and biting it in the middle such that they have it by the long fold, hands and teeth, and are holding the points apart, straight and firmly. 4) Roll from the point very tightly untill you have a long tube. 5) We always held this in place with a piece of scotch tape around the center. 6) Put it around the neck with the right side a little longer than a hands width longer than the left side. 7) Cross the right side over the left at the bottom of the neck opening of the jumper, or the third button of a dress shirt. Then through the hole and down. 8) Bring this (the end that started on the right, and is now in front) to the right, then behind, then right through the loop you've just made, to form a square knot. If you've done this right you should have a tube shaped square knot; the top of which should line up with the very bottom of the neck opening of the jumper, and the ends should be even with each other.

I hope this helps!

• #8

Bye the way, there is a darned good reason for folding your uniform that way. If done correctly, they will all fit in your locker and stay wrinkle free. I've taught countless sailors how to do this. What really shocked me at first was the vast majority of young sailors didn't know how to tie a proper windsor knot. The first time a chided a young squid with, "Didn't your dad ever teach you how to tie a tie?" and his reply was, "Chief, I don't have a dad..." I was thoroughly humbled and never asked that again. Sometimes I forget that not everyone is as blessed as I have been.

ISC(PJ)

• #9

Hello NavyguyAl.

Hello navyguyAl, we've met before online! Nice to see you here on the lounge! You helped me out with a ww2 collar for a ww2 Aussie dress blue square rig I have. Tried to pm you but it said you aren't accepting them. Would be great to catch up with you so drop me a line

Cheers

Peter

Not sure looking at dates as to whether you will be picking up this message or not.

The uniform you have (what a bargain as well!!) is the style and material used right up until the late 60's. It is of that superb thick soft cloth material.
It can be washed very easily as it will then stop the white trim from going yellow. BUT NOT a hot wash just a very cool wash. Best done by hand and then can be rinsed in a machine and then hung up to dry. Also wash and iron uniform inside out.

If you want more info on how to get it pressed correctly and safely drop me a line. Also is the cap the 'Donald Duck' style being like a black flat pancake with US Navy on the tally? If so these are available on quite a few occasions on Ebay. If it is the white Dixie Cup style then they are the same today and very easy to obtain. Also today's neckerchief (sometimes called the scarf) is also easy to obtain and I can give you details of how to roll and tie one.

• #10

Messages

23

Location

NW UK

Peter,
I am beginning to despair of this site as I have been unable to log in as it would not accept an existing password despite that being recorded on my PC.......so have had to reregister and start again...... now I find I cannot send you a Private message and thus give you my email address as I do not want to publish it here. Can you see if you can send me a Private message?

Hello navyguyAl, we've met before online! Nice to see you here on the lounge! You helped me out with a ww2 collar for a ww2 Aussie dress blue square rig I have. Tried to pm you but it said you aren't accepting them. Would be great to catch up with you so drop me a line

Cheers

Peter

• #11

Maybe I can help. For the neckerchief: 1) Iron flat into a square 2) fold into a triangle, by bringing 2 opposite points together. 3) Here's the somewhat tricky part: have a friend hold the neckerchief, the long points (the ones furthest apart) in their hands and biting it in the middle such that they have it by the long fold, hands and teeth, and are holding the points apart, straight and firmly. 4) Roll from the point very tightly untill you have a long tube. 5) We always held this in place with a piece of scotch tape around the center. 6) Put it around the neck with the right side a little longer than a hands width longer than the left side. 7) Cross the right side over the left at the bottom of the neck opening of the jumper, or the third button of a dress shirt. Then through the hole and down. 8) Bring this (the end that started on the right, and is now in front) to the right, then behind, then right through the loop you've just made, to form a square knot. If you've done this right you should have a tube shaped square knot; the top of which should line up with the very bottom of the neck opening of the jumper, and the ends should be even with each other.

I hope this helps!

Back when I was a "dirty blue shirt" I used to be on the Sub Base drill team. I would add that the neckerchief needs to be damp to iron properly. (add light starch to cold water if desired) We used a 1/8" dowel and taped it to the point with "drafting tape" (like masking tape but less sticky leaves less residue on the silk) We would roll it up after ironing it to slightly damp and allow it to dry on the rod with the tight roll secured by more drafting tape at strategic places along its glength. Once dry we would remove all but a few strips of the tape (that would be strategically hidden by the back flap) and tie it as above. Both bitter ends of the neckerchief should be of equal legnth and the "v" on the back of the knot should face left. (Although for that WWII look a fat roll with a knot up to 2" above the jumper neckline looks cool)

Check out the white hat styles from rolled, flared (my style) square and winged. Nobody who is out of boot wears a sraight dogbowl and nobody flips the brim down and folds it flat and in thirds for carry it ruins the other styles.

Doc

• #12

Back when I was a "dirty blue shirt" I used to be on the Sub Base drill team. I would add that the neckerchief needs to be damp to iron properly. (add light starch to cold water if desired) We used a 1/8" dowel and taped it to the point with "drafting tape" (like masking tape but less sticky leaves less residue on the silk) We would roll it up after ironing it to slightly damp and allow it to dry on the rod with the tight roll secured by more drafting tape at strategic places along its glength. Once dry we would remove all but a few strips of the tape (that would be strategically hidden by the back flap) and tie it as above. Both bitter ends of the neckerchief should be of equal legnth and the "v" on the back of the knot should face left. (Although for that WWII look a fat roll with a knot up to 2" above the jumper neckline looks cool)

Check out the white hat styles from rolled, flared (my style) square and winged. Nobody who is out of boot wears a sraight dogbowl and nobody flips the brim down and folds it flat and in thirds for carry it ruins the other styles.

Doc

I used to wear the dixie cup flared, too. As for neckerchiefs, we could just have it rolled at the base dry cleaners, and I've even seen "cheater knots" made from a length of web belt and a piece of scrap neckerchief material.

• #13

Messages

23

Location

NW UK

USN Caps

Sounds good as I have always had a slight problem with rolling the neckerchief and also never realised it would be better to iron it damp and let it dry.

However I am confused with the caps as I was told by a US sailor that it should have the brim folded over in half as that gave the 'rolled' effect when undone. And that is how I have done mine.

What is the 'flared' look? Despite seeing quite a few WWII pics I have not really noticed the 'square' look but can imagine although how you keep it like that I cannot imagine.

The 'winged' I have only seen on a few re-enactors caps and, to be honest, they look rather silly and not right as, again, I have not seen any on WWII pics.

Back when I was a "dirty blue shirt" I used to be on the Sub Base drill team. I would add that the neckerchief needs to be damp to iron properly. (add light starch to cold water if desired) We used a 1/8" dowel and taped it to the point with "drafting tape" (like masking tape but less sticky leaves less residue on the silk) We would roll it up after ironing it to slightly damp and allow it to dry on the rod with the tight roll secured by more drafting tape at strategic places along its glength. Once dry we would remove all but a few strips of the tape (that would be strategically hidden by the back flap) and tie it as above. Both bitter ends of the neckerchief should be of equal legnth and the "v" on the back of the knot should face left. (Although for that WWII look a fat roll with a knot up to 2" above the jumper neckline looks cool)

Check out the white hat styles from rolled, flared (my style) square and winged. Nobody who is out of boot wears a sraight dogbowl and nobody flips the brim down and folds it flat and in thirds for carry it ruins the other styles.

Doc

• #14

Sounds good as I have always had a slight problem with rolling the neckerchief and also never realised it would be better to iron it damp and let it dry.

However I am confused with the caps as I was told by a US sailor that it should have the brim folded over in half as that gave the 'rolled' effect when undone. And that is how I have done mine.

What is the 'flared' look? Despite seeing quite a few WWII pics I have not really noticed the 'square' look but can imagine although how you keep it like that I cannot imagine.

The 'winged' I have only seen on a few re-enactors caps and, to be honest, they look rather silly and not right as, again, I have not seen any on WWII pics.

The flared look would look much like the top of your cap in your avatar. You just have keep working the top edge of the dixie cup until the edge stretches out enough to hold the edge at a 90 degree angle to the rest of the side. The flare is a development of the roll. Is this confusing enough for you? [huh]

• #15

Messages

23

Location

NW UK

USN caops

Thanks for that.:eusa_clap

The flared look would look much like the top of your cap in your avatar. You just have keep working the top edge of the dixie cup until the edge stretches out enough to hold the edge at a 90 degree angle to the rest of the side. The flare is a development of the roll. Is this confusing enough for you? [huh]

• #16

The difference between the square and wing is one of degree. I think of the wing style as being a more exagerated form of the square. You grab the top edge of the brim on what will be your "sides" and pull and twist them over out. This brings the front and back brims up where they are often rolled as well. "Wing" styles simply exagerate this to the point where sometimes half the brim is parallel with the deck. "Wing" styles have the advantage of really sending the "khaki's" crazy (particularly Chiefs)

Doc

• #17

When I was in the Marines I would only have my Dress uniforms dry cleaned. I would advise the same to anyone. Dry cleaning is less harsh on the material.

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Source: https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/my-wwii-sailor-uniform-suit-do-i-dry-clean-or-can-i-wash.27341/

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